Aquarium Fish Supplies

MINERAL SALTS REQUIRED BY PLANTS - Nitrogen, contained in nitrates. - Phosphorus, contained in phosphates. - Potassium, which is a component of other salts. A few other substances are also needed, sometimes in very small quantities: - Metals, such as iron and magnesium (see page 196); - Vitamins. Vegetation can thrive in an aquarium,if it is provided with good lighting and nutrient salts. extensive planting is envisaged for the aquarium (in the case of a Dutch aquarium, for example - see page 33). GENERAL CONDITIONS FOR GROWING AQUATIC PLANTS Many aquarists treat plants as mere decorative elements; others cultivate them in the same way as they raise fish: they make them grow and even reproduce. It is possible to find veritable “aquatic horticulturalists” who obtain astonishing results. How do you know if your plants have a growth problem? A plant lacking any of the elements it needs to live turns yellow or brown and rapidly dies. The leaves get covered with a fine layer of filamentous algae and eventually fall off. However, in some species it is not easy to tell when the growth process is slowing down.
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This phenomenon, which is only really visible in heavily planted and densely populated aquariums, rarely entails any problems for fish. Fertilizers When an aquarium is put into operation, the bed and the water contain mineral salts. These gradually run out and the plants are therefore in danger of mineral deficiency. Faced with this situation, an aquarist has three options: - regularly change part of the water (generally 10% of the volume per week), to obtain “new” water containing salts; - add liquid fertilizers specially designed for aquatic plants; - add solid fertilizers, in the form of sustained- release mineral salt capsules placed at the base of the plants. You can also make a solid fertilizer at home, based on clay. Knead it, form small balls, then have them soak up liquid fertilizer. Placed at the base of plants, these balls gradually release their nutrients. Mineral salts This name covers all the substances needed for the growth of aquarium plants. They are in fact the equivalent of the fertilizers that are used in agriculture, or for house plants. Plants’ needs vary according to the substance: some are only required in tiny amounts (metals, for example) but they must be constantly available. Mineral salts are absorbed by the roots and leaves in truly aquatic plants, and by the roots in amphibian plants. In the natural environment, some aquatic areas are considered fertile, as the renewal of the water and the equilibrium of the natural cycles provide sufficient amounts of mineral salts for plants to prosper. Those regions lacking these vital elements are characterized by sparse vegetation, or none at all. In an aquarium, which is a self-contained environment, the water and the bed contain mineral salts that will gradually run out, at a rate determined by the quantity of the vegetation. You must therefore make plans to reinforce the mineral salt level on a regular basis, as you would for A FEW RULES FOR A NOVICE “AQUATIC GARDENER” 1. Choose plants suited to aquarium water. 2. Choose hardy species, some rapid growers and other slower. 3. Satisfy their needs, especially as regards special lighting. 4. Check the supply of nutrients. 5. Do not hesitate to ask for advice, from your aquarium store owner or from clubs and associations. A LACK OF CO2 There is usually enough carbon dioxide in the water, but it can sometimes be deficient, even in a tank that is profusely planted and well lit. If this occurs, the carbon dioxide that has been trapped by the bicarbonates is used in its turn: the pH often rises above 7.5, sometimes even up to 8, in fresh water, and the calcium forms a fine layer on leafy plants and “suffocates” them. Deposits can also be seen on the glass panes, at water level. Carbon dioxide diffusers are available in the aquarium trade to remedy this problem. You must also bear in mind that aeration and stirring of the water, which contribute to its oxygenation, help expel the CO2 dissolved in the water into the atmosphere. This means that excessive stirring can sometimes have dire consequences for plants. Nowadays specialist aquarium stores stock equipment designed to supply plants with the CO2 they need. house plants. Some aquarists provide, from the very beginning, an enriched soil that will gradually release these mineral salts.
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CARING FOR PLANTS Plants need light, mineral salts (fertilizer), and carbon dioxide (CO2) to grow, and their survival and reproduction depends on the right proportions of these elements. A fishkeeper also needs to be an aquatic gardener and have “green fingers” to cultivate his or her live decor. You must respect the needs of plants to obtain optimal growth and reproduction. Plants have an overwhelming need for light, whether natural or artificial, to grow and produce oxygen, once they have absorbed carbon dioxide. WHAT PLANTS NEED Water Aquatic plants are in general very sensitive to the water quality. Although some plants, such as the floating fern, are easy to keep, and seem indifferent to the quality of the water, others require water that is soft and acid or, alternatively, alkaline and hard, and will only flourish in water that is adapted to their specific needs. Light Aquarium plants usually need strong lighting, produced by special fluorescent tubes for 12 or 13 hours a day. For information concerning lighting see page 226. If the lighting is deficient in either quality or quantity, the plants will turn yellow and eventually die. Carbon dioxide (CO2), oxygen (O2), and photosynthesis Like all living beings, plants are continuously respiring. They consume oxygen and expel carbon dioxide, thereby affecting the oxygenation of the water and tropical fish supplies, both in a natural setting and an aquarium. By contrast, in reaction to light - therefore only by day - they absorb the carbon dioxide from fish respiration and produce oxygen: it is this photosynthesis that enables them to grow. This phenomenon has a beneficial effect on the equilibrium of the aquarium, as it results in the production of more oxygen than the plant consumes in its respiration. There may be slight variations in the oxygen levels from day to night, with the minimum levels being reached in the last third of the night. An aquarist (preferably an insomniac!) can verify this by measuring the pH every hour in a cycle of 24 hours (see diagram on page 14). An increase in the water’s oxygen level pushes up the pH, while the production of CO2 at night acidifies the water and the pH goes down. MAGNESIUM, CHLOROPHYLL, AND IRON Magnesium is an important element, as it makes up part of the chlorophyll pigment that absorbs light. Iron plays a role in the chemical reactions of photosynthesis. If plants are deficient in iron, their growth slows down and they turn yellow; specialists refer to this as chlorosis - a condition also seen in agriculture.
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Biological methods These can involve the use of herbivorous animals only interested in certain types of algae, such as the fish mentioned above or gastropods (rare in sea water). The battle on the biological front is sometimes fought without any intervention on the part of the aquarist, as larger aquatic plants release substances that can inhibit the development of algae. The extent of this phenomenon is very difficult to find aquarium fish supplies appreciate in an aquarium, as it is invisible to the human eye. Chemical methods There are special products on the market designed to kill algae. As their effect has not been fully established, it is best to be cautious with the dosage, as these substances probably also affect other plants. For the same reasons, the use of copper sulfate is not recommended, as it is dangerous for invertebrates. There is no miracle solution. The use of several techniques at the same time sometimes has positive results, but it is not unusual to find that the algae reappear after a while. It is best to get used to partially eliminating them on a regular basis.
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Red algae (Rhodophyceae) It is unusual to find a proliferation of these algae in an aquarium. Brown algae (Pheophyceae) In an aquarium, these mainly consist of diatoms, unicellular microscopic algae. These grow and form a thin film on the decor and glass panes of the tank. Under poor ecological conditions, they can follow from certain green algae. Green algae (Chlorophyceae) It is generally considered that their appearance in small, sparse clumps is a good sign (especially in alkaline water) that may indicate that the aquarium is well-equipped. However, if they proliferate they create two main types of problem: - green filamentous algae; this is probably aquarium fish supplies one of the types of overgrowth most often seen. These algae are very thin and, although they sometimes only grow to a few centimeters in length, they can extend to several dozen centimeters. They reproduce through fragmentation, with one very short filament, invisible to the naked eye, sufficient to colonize an aquarium in a fairly short space of time, if the conditions are right; - green water; this is caused by the widespread growth of microscopic algae, generally unicellular, which can move around with the help of a flagellum. In a natural setting, these constitute phytoplankton. They often proliferate rapidly when the concentration of nutritional elements (mineral salts), particularly nitrogen, is too high, in strong light. Blue algae (Cyanophyceae) Also microscopic, these are extremely ancient in origin: they were among the first living elements to appear on Earth. Despite their name, they form a green-blue, sometimes brownish, layer with a velvety sheen. They often develop if the lighting is excessive.
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Mechanical methods Algae can be removed by hand, by sliding the leaves of the plant between the thumb and index figure, by rolling filamentous algae around a stick, or, finally, with a scraper equipped with a razor blade or a small scouring pad (available commercially, although you can also make one yourself). Any rocks, sand, coral skeletons, branches, or roots infested by algae can be treated, outside the aquarium, in a 10% bleach solution, to which these algae are very sensitive. Any submerged equipment colonized by algae (heating, pipes, diffuser, filter) can aquarium fish supplies be treated in the same way. It is important to rinse and dry them thoroughly before putting them back into the tank. Sometimes, however, the proliferation of algae can be so extensive that the only option is to create a whole new aquarium from scratch. Ecological methods Try to regulate the factor provoking the algae overgrowth by adjusting the amount of light, which should be reduced in the case of green or blue algae. Changing the position of the tubes, or the addition of deflectors, to keep algae off the front of the tank, produces good results. In freshwater aquariums, you can make partial water changes, on a fairly regular basis, using water with a low hardness containing few mineral salts.
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The large majority of aquarists have found themselves confronted with undesirable levels of algae that are sometimes difficult to combat. Generally speaking, it is better to avoid excess growth in the first place than to have to try to fight it- often with varying degrees of success. ALGAE OVERGROWTH This overgrowth can be recognized by its greenish or yellow-brown color, (while whitish or gray filamentous masses, made up of bacteria and fungi, may also be mixed in with algae). This type of growth can form quite thick layers on the glass panes, the bed, and the decor, appearing as filamentous tufts or even completely covering other green algae. While a modest presence of algae can be considered a sign of equilibrium, this overgrowth is evidence of a degree of imbalance, and so algae are often referred to as biological indicators. You must be careful, however, as every aquarium is a special case, and applying a generalization to a specific situation could ultimately lead to the wrong conclusions. The disadvantages of algae Apart from being an eyesore, excess algae grow on the panes, reducing the visibility. They attach themselves to plants and proliferate, with the subsequent risk of suffocating their hosts, as the plants are prevented from exchanging gases and absorbing the salts in the water. Finally, they incrust themselves on the slightest details in the decor, which does nothing to enhance the visual effect. … and their advantages These are substantial. Algae consume nitrogenous substances, particularly nitrates, and sometimes ammonia. This is the normal role of plants in fresh water, and algae can therefore complement this action or, on the contrary, exert an antagonistic effect by diverting nutritious salts away from the plants. The vegetation is less abundant in marine tanks, and so algae - particularly the filamentous green ones - can play an important role. Algae can also be grazed or ground by some fish. In fresh water, this applies to the Poeciliids and the species known as “suckers” or “washers” (Gyrinocbeilus, Ancistrus, Hypostomus, Panaque, Otoclinchus, Epalzeorbynchus). In sea water, algae form part of the diet of fish families, such as the Chaetontids, Centropyges, and Acanthurids; their presence in an aquarium can help these fish acclimatize themselves to the artificial environment of the domestic aquarium.
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It is possible to find excellent imitations of natural plants, but as an aquarium is a reconstitution of a piece of nature, it is easy to see why they are totally off limits for many aquarists, who prefer their plants to be natural. Some of these artificial plants, however, can serve as a support in a rearing tank for those species of fish that lay adhesive eggs. PLANTS IN A MARINE AQUARIUM There are substantially fewer marine plants suited to an aquarium than freshwater ones. The most common are from the Caulerpa genus, which grow quickly under the right conditions. These algae attach themselves to the floor and decor with a runner. They are highly recommended in a marine tank, as they are bound to enhance the overall balance. Their exuberant growth, however, can sometimes interfere with fixed marine invertebrates, such as anemones and corals. This anarchic behavior must therefore be restrained by regularly eliminating a certain amount of this vegetation. THE ROLE OF PLANTS IN AN AQUARIUM Contrary to what is often thought, plants do not merely serve as decoration but also make a major contribution to the equilibrium of the aquarium (see page 196 on the mechanism of photosynthesis): by day, they absorb carbon dioxide (CO2) given off by fish and produce oxygen (O2). Moreover, they absorb nitrates, the end product of the nitrogen cycle (see page 19), and thus reduce the concentration in the water. Plants are similarly useful for fish. Some species (like Ancistrus and Gyrinocheilus) feed on algae that grow on the decor, or even on fine-leafed plants (as in the case of livebearers from the Poeciliid family), though this can spoil the visual effect. Others, such as South American Characins, lay their eggs on the foliage, which helps to keep them out of sight of predators. Fish such as scaklares, watching over their eggs, use large leaves to fan them. When the fry are born, they find shelter in the vegetation - particularly plants with floating leaves - as well as nourishment there, as the plants enhance the development of microorganisms like infusorians, which are a valuable food source. Finally, if the vegetation is sufficiently lush, it can also provide welcome shade and hiding places for adult fish.
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The vast majority of aquatic plants are not taken from the wild but are grown by specialist firms. These plants serve as decorative elements in the aquarium, but this is not their only role, as they also contribute to its ecological balance, especially via their production of oxygen when in the light. An enormous variety of plants can be cultivated, in this case under glass, in an extremely hot and humid atmosphere. THE ORIGIN OF AQUARIUM PLANTS All aquarium plants will reproduce in tanks, so there is no point in collecting them in their natural setting, unless you want new species or a pure variety. Some plants sold in aquatic stores are mere hybrids bearing the name of one of its two “parents”, which can sometimes lead to confusion. The collection of certain plants from the wild is prohibited. Aquarium plants are cultivated by specialist companies, mainly in South-East Asia but also in Europe and the United States. Agricultural greenhouses are used, partly heated by solar energy, or sometimes geothermically, using hot water pumped into irrigation canals. Sunlight may be complemented by artificial lighting if the plants demand this. Most species are raised with a large part of the plant - or even all of it - outside the water, although the environment is extremely humid. They adapt to the aquarium setting, but tend to change the shape of their leaves when introduced into this different environment. Most aquarium plants are raised out of water. DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLANTS Contrary to what one might expect, most of the plants found in aquariums are not really aquatic. They generally live partly out of the water, with only the lower portion permanently submerged. Their leaves are sturdy, unbroken in form, and quite big. When the level of rivers and ponds rises due to rain - sometimes very heavy in tropical regions - the plants end up almost entirely, or sometimes even completely, covered by water. They develop submerged leaves, which are different from those which appear outside the water, being finer and more delicate. At the end of the rainy season, the water returns to its initial level, and the plant reassumes its previous form. Other plants are totally aquatic, with the upper part of their stems only rarely seen above the water level - usually to produce a flower. There are also amphibian or totally aquatic mosses, that are very useful in aquariums, as they provide a place for some fish to lay their eggs. Another option is ferns, not only the best-known species from temperate regions but also those from the tropics that can survive entirely submerged by water.
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