Aquarium Fish Supplies

AQUARIUM PLANTS Anubias (Araceae, West Africa) These grow slowly, under weak lighting, in soft, acid water. Multiplication takes place through a division of the rhizome, which must never be covered with soil. Anubias barteri There are two varieties: the smallest, the dwarf anubias, is ideal for foregrounds; the biggest, Barter’s anubias, has spear-like leaves and can be placed a little further back. Size: 30 cm. Anubias heterophylla The Congo anubias can exceed 35 cm in height and is therefore only suitable for large aquariums. The shape of the leaves can vary considerably but, broadly speaking, they are oval or lanceolate. Size: 30-40 cm. Anubias barteri Cryptocoryne cordata Anubias heterophylla Cryptocoryne (Araceae, South-East Asia) Several dozen species of this genus are used in aquariums, which sometimes gives rise to confusion. Some are genuinely aquatic, others amphibious. The quality of water required varies according to the species: soft to moderately hard, slightly acid to alkaline; the soil must always be quite rich. Sexual reproduction with flowers is rare; vegetative multiplication occurs by means of runners or the division of the clump. Cryptocoryne balansae Balansa’s cryptocoryne prefers intense light and a temperature over 25 C. It should be kept as a single specimen, to highlight it. Size: 40 cm. Cryptocoryne beckettii Beckett’s cryptocoryne, paludal in the wild, is very resistant and can live totally submerged. Size: 40 cm. Cryptocoryne ciliata The ciliated cryptocoryne is one of the species in this genus that tolerates hard water, and it requires fairly rich soil. It is amphibious in its natural environment. Size: 40 cm. Cryptocoryne cordata The Siamese cryptocoryne exists in several varieties, which differ from each other in the shape of their leaves. It adjusts well to hard water. Size: 15-20 cm. Cryptocoryne crispatula A large hardy species, the undulated cryptocoryne is reserved for big aquariums, where it deserves to be shown off. It dislikes water that is too hard. Size: 50-70 cm. Cryptocoryne beckettii Cryptocoryne crispatula Hottonia inflata (foreground)
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PLANTS FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED Vallisneria (Hydrocharitaceae, Asia) The vallisnerias are often confused with the sagittarias. Like them, they reproduce through runners, need plenty of light, water that is not too hard, and a slightly acid pH. Vallisneria asiatica The eel grass is found in several varieties. Its leaves are spiraled. It can exceed 40 cm in height, which makes it ideal for decorating the sides or rear of an aquarium. Size: 40-50 cm. Vallisneria spiralis The term spiralis refers to the floral peduncle and not the leaves. The spiraled eel grass is very popular in aquariums and reproduces actively under good conditions. Size: 40-50 cm. Vallisneria gigantea Its leaves, which can grow to 1 m in length and 3 cm in width, rest on the surface of the water. The giant vallisneria prefers intense lighting and a slightly enriched soil. It is obviously only suitable for large aquariums. Size: 1 m. Vallisneria gigantea Vallisneria spiralis PLANTS FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED Once you have gained experience with the above species, you can move on to other less common plants. Those that take the form of tufts tend to grow quite slowly, which may be frustrating for more impatient aquarists. However, they are a beautiful sight if their requirements are satisfied, especially with respect to the water quality and the intensity of the lighting. Alternanthera (Amaranthaceae, South America) These plants prefer soft, acid water and multiply with the help of cuttings. Their reddish color stands out among the other plants in an aquarium. Alternanthera sessilis There are two varieties of sessile alternanthera. The first, with totally red leaves, does not last for more than a few months if it is fully submerged. The second can be distinguished by the brown-green coloring of the upper part of the leaves, and can adapt more easily to a totally aquatic life. Size: 30-40 cm. Alternanthera reineckii More hardy than the above species, Reineck’s alternanthera is not so eyecatching as it does not share the red coloring. It produces lateral shoots under intense lighting, which make it easy to take cuttings. Size: 30-40 cm. Alternanthera reineckii Alternanthera sessilis
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AQUARIUM PLANTS Rotala (Lythraceae, South-East Asia) The leaves of these species are reddish in color, especially on the underside, but their shape varies according to the setting. They grow in soft, acid water, under strong lighting, and need plenty of iron. The formation of adventitious roots makes it easy to take cuttings. They can produce a striking visual effect if they are planted in a grove, as they stand out well against green plants. Rotala macrandra The coloring of the giant red rotala varies according to the intensity of the lighting, but, as is name suggests, red usually sets the tone. It grows quite quickly, but pruning encourages the growth of lateral shoots which can be used for cuttings. Size: 30 cm. Rotala rotundifolia The upper face of the leaves of the round-leaf rotalia is green, the lower one a reddish color. When the leaves emerge from the water they turn completely green. It is beautiful in clumps, though you must leave sufficient spaces between the stems when planting. Size: 30 cm. Sagittaria sagittifolia Rotala rotundifolia Sagittaria (Alismataceae, North and South America, and Europe) The leaves of these paludal plants that are above water are arrow-shaped, while the submerged ones take the form of thin ribbons. Take care not to push the rhizome too far into the soil: the plant can be held in place by a curved piece of wire. Vegetative multiplication occurs by means of seedlings formed on a runner, which can took root on their own, or with the help of the aquarist. The runner can then be cut off. Sagittaria graminea There are several varieties of the narrow leaf arrowhead, which differ in the length and width of their leaves. They all prefer moderate lighting, soft or slightly hard water, and an approximately neutral pH. Size: 40 cm. Sagittaria sagittifolia The amphibious arrowhead is quite common in calm waters in Europe, especially in garden ponds, where it resists the winters, although it prefers sunny areas. Size: 40-50 cm in water. Rotala macranda Sagittaria graminea HOW TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN SAGITTARIAS AND VALLISNERIAS Sagittarias and vallisnerias can be distinguished by the tips of their leaves. Sagittarias The longitudinal veins do not reach the tip. The transversal veins are perpendicular and numerous. Vallisnerias The longitudinal veins reach the tips. Few transversal veins, sometimes at oblique angles.
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MOST POPULAR PLANTS Limnophila (Scrofulariaceae, South-East Asia) Its fine foliage is much appreciated by certain fish which lay their eggs on it or, depending on the species, munch on it. These amphibian plants can live submerged, and when they reach the surface of water they spread out on top of it. At this point cuttings should be taken and transplanted. Good lighting is essential. A lack of iron causes their leaves to turn yellow. Limnophila aquatica The aquatic ambulia grows well in soft or slightly hard and acid water, providing it has an adequate supply of mineral salts. Small shoots from its base are perfect for cuttings, although removing the top is equally effective. This ambulia must be planted in clumps, with the stems slightly separated to take advantage of the light. Size: 30 cm. Limnophila heterophylla The heterophyllous ambulia is less tufted than the above, but its tips must nevertheless be removed regularly. Size: 30 cm. Limnophila heterophylla Ludwigia (Onagraceae, tropical regions) Ludwigs thrive on light, iron, and fairly rich soils. Cuttings are taken by lopping off a stalk under the adventitious roots. Another option is to cut off the top of the plant, which avoids the loss of any of the lower leaves. Size: 30 cm. Ludwigia ascendens The totally aquatic large-petaled ludwig can sometimes appear above the surface. It tolerates a wide range of hardness and a pH of around 7. It is especially recommended for beginners. Ludwigia alternifolia As its name indicates, the leaves of the alternate leaf ludwig are arranged alternately along the stem, and not directly opposite each other. It prefers soft, acid water. Size: 30 cm. Ludwigia brevipes A fairly resistant plant, the false lusimakhos tolerates hard, alkaline water and temperatures slightly below 20 C. It can therefore be used in a temperate aquarium. Size: 30 cm. Ludwigia repens The rampant ludwig is found in both a green variety and a reddish variety. Both require good lighting but are considered hardy. Size: 30 cm. Ludwigia sp. Ludwigia repens Myriophyllum aquaticum Myriophyllum (Haloragaceae, North and South America) Around a dozen species from this genus, both amphibian and totally aquatic, constitute some of the most popular aquarium plants. Their soft foliage is appreciated by fish with herbivorous tastes, while others use it to lay their eggs. The aquatic milfoils thrive on light and relatively hard water, although this must be clear, as small suspended particles get trapped in the foliage. The main method used for reproduction is that of taking cuttings. Myriophyllum aquaticum In contrast with the other species, the water milfoil prefers soft, acid water. Cuttings are taken by removing the top or the tiny branches. You can achieve a stunning decorative effect by planting a copse of these plants. Size: 40 cm. Myriophyllum spicatum The spiked milfoil is a hardy, fast-growing plant that needs fairly hard alkaline water. It must be pruned regularly to ensure that it remains sturdy. Several other species of milfoils are available on the market, some with reddish hues; they all require good lighting. Size: 40 cm.
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AQUARIUM PLANTS Eleocharis (Cyperaceae, tropical regions) These plants, resembling tufts of grass, live in swamps, and are therefore suited to aquaterrariums, although they can also be cultivated in aquariums under strong lighting, in hard, alkaline water. Eleocharis minima When the stems of the spiked rush reach the surface, they spread out and do not emerge above it. Vegetative multiplication occurs with the help of runners or the division of a clump. Size: 20-30 cm. Heteranthera (Pontederiaceae, Central or South America) These plants are totally aquatic, requiring intense light and a fairly rich soil. They are sensitive to any deficiency in iron. The water must be slightly alkaline and moderately hard. Heteranthera dubia The yellow-flowered heteranthera can be reproduced with cuttings, a process that is facilitated by adventitious roots on the stem. The stem is quite fine and can float on the surface of the water. Size: 40 cm. Heteranthera zosterifolia The stargrass can live totally submerged. It multiplies through cuttings of the side shoots; it can also grow as a creeper. Size: 30 cm. Hygrophila guianensis Hygrophila (Acanthaceae, South-East Asia) More than 10 species are found in the aquarium trade, although the existence of different varieties and the modifications made to scientific names can lead to confusion. They live half-submerged, but can tolerate immersion in a moderately hard acid or neutral water. They need intense light to grow well, and should be planted in groups, but with sufficient spaces between the stems. It is easy to take cuttings: just chop off the head of the stem as soon as it reaches the surface. Hygrophila corymbosa (formerly Nomaphila) The giant hygro tolerates temperatures as low as 15 C. The presence of adventitious roots is an advantage when taking cuttings. Size: 30 cm. Hygrophila guianensis (formerly H. salicifolia) The willow leaf hygro, recognizable by an almost square stem, is sensitive to excessively hard water or a lack of iron. When the light is insufficient, the leaves at the bottom of the stem fall off. Size: 30 cm. Hygrophila difformis (formerly Synnema triflorum) Considered a weed in its native region, the water wisteria is prized by aquarists for its pale color and finely serrated leaves, although when these first appear their form is less delicate. This plant tolerates fairly wide ranges of hardness and pH. When the leaves drop off the stem, young shoots appear in their place. Size: 30 cm. Eleocharis vivapara, a species closely related to Eleocharis minima Hygrophila difformis Hygrophila corymbosa
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Ceratophyllum (Ceratophyllaceae, cosmopolitan) Ceratophylls can be found all over the world, but only one species is common in aquariums. Ceratophyllum demersum The water sprite is found in Europe and Central America, though this temperate water plant can adjust to tropical aquariums. It is well suited to tanks with goldfish or garden ponds, where it can sometimes grow in profusion. It is easy to cultivate, although its stem breaks easily. It does not have any true roots and finds it difficult to establish itself in the substrate; it therefore has to be “wedged in” by rocks or branches, or float on the surface. It is easy to take cuttings from the main stem, or from side shoots. It is relatively indifferent to the hardness and pH of the water, but it does require strong lighting. Size: 30-40 cm. Cabomba (Cabombaceae, southern United States, South America) Some fish, such as South American Characins, take advantage of the fine foliage of the cabomba to lay their eggs, while other partially herbivorous fish graze on it. These plants need good lighting, water that is not too hard, and a more or less neutral pH. For reproduction take cuttings from the side shoots, or from the top. Cabomba aquatica If the light is weak, the water cabomba spreads out on the surface of the water. It grows quickly, unless the water is lacking in carbon dioxide; this means that you must avoid circulating it too vigorously. Size: 30-40 cm. Cabomba caroliniana More robust than its cousin, the fish grass or water shield can tolerate temperatures of 20 C but its soil must be fairly rich. The form of its leaves depends on the conditions under which it is cultivated. Size: 30-40 cm. Cabomba caroliniana Elodea and Egeria (Hydrocharitaceae, cosmopolitan) These are known as water pests, on account of their tendency to proliferate. Under an intense light they produce a great deal of oxygen. They put down roots but can also live afloat, preferably in hard, alkaline water. Elodea canadensis Originally from North America, Canadian pond weed has been introduced into temperate regions all over the world, although only the female has been present in Europe since the middle of the 19th century, and it can obviously only reproduce through cuttings. It is a plant for temperate aquariums or garden ponds, with an optimum temperature range of 15-20 C. Egeria densa (formerly Elodea densa) Both sexes of the dense elodea were, similarly, introduced into Europe, although it is highly unusual to find reproduction through flowering in an aquarium. It is suited to temperate aquariums, but can tolerate temperatures of up to 25 C. Size: 30-40 cm.
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They could also be called “the classics,” as they have given great pleasure to both veteran and novice aquarists for generations. Some are of particularly interest to beginners, as they are not only easy to cultivate but also inexpensive. They are mainly stemmed plants which provide cuttings without any difficulty and grow rapidly provided they are given the appropriate level of light. Some are species that adapt to different types of water, others are more suited to a regional aquarium. Acorus (Araceae, Asia) The Acorus genus, native to temperate and cold waters, is widely distributed outside its original breeding grounds. It will not tolerate temperatures over 22 C and is therefore exclusive to temperate aquariums. These plants reproduce by dividing a rhizome between the buds. They are generally paludal (marsh plants) and are equally suited to aquaterrariums and garden ponds, although they will also survive totally submerged. Acorus gramineus There are two varieties of this species. The biggest, the green acorus, grows to a height of 30 cm; the smallest, the dwarf acorus, at around 10 cm, is ideal in foregrounds. Acorus calamus The sweet flag or muskrat root is found in Europe. As it can grow to a height of over 1 m, it is reserved for garden ponds. Bacopa monnieri Bacopa (Scrofulariaceae, southern United States, Central America) These hardy plants, with their paired oval leaves, can be made to flower in an aquarium, but taking cuttings is the best way to propagate. They prefer water that is neutral or slightly acid and not too hard, and are best planted in groups, with small spaces between their stems. Bacopa caroliniana The hardy water hyssop tolerates temperatures as low as 20 C, but will not stand those above 24-25 C. Size: 30 cm. Bacopa monnieri There is more space between the leaves than in the above species. The snowflake hyssop grows quite slowly and is very easy to keep but it requires good lighting. Size: 30 cm.
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Of the thousands of plants that are genuinely aquatic, or only amphibian, only a few hundred are to be found in the aquarium trade. The vast majority of these come from tropical fresh water, with the remainder coming from northern climes, and therefore suitable for temperate aquariums and garden ponds. The most common plants are generally the most robust, and are therefore specially suitable for beginners. Others are best left to committed aquarists keen to create a veritable aquatic garden. The special plants - the floating species, mosses, and ferns - have been grouped together, on account of their exceptional lifestyle; they should be of interest to all aquarists.
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Plants without stems thicken at the base, sometimes forming smaller, secondary feet with roots. These can be carefully removed with a razor blade and replanted. The division of the base is a technique applicable to many plants, such as the cryptocorynes. LAYERING Some plants, such as the Echinidorus species or the marine algae from the Caulerpa genus, produce a horizontal aerial stem, known as a runner (or stolon). A young plant then grows out of this, producing roots that enable it to establish itself in the bed, either spontaneously, or with added help from the aquarist, who may have to encourage it to take root. After about a week, the roots will have grown sufficiently to allow the runner to be cut off. In the case of the Congo fern, this produces a rhizome that grows slowly, with new leaves appearing on it. If you cut off this rhizome between two leaves, you are left with two independent plants. A “REARING TANK” FOR PLANTS? Why not? Some aquarists sometimes manage to get plants to reproduce sexually, when they bloom. They use one or several cultivation tanks, in which cuttings, layering, and division of the base are regularly performed. When they are fully grown, the plants are then transplanted into a community aquarium. A reproduction tank for plants must have specially adapted and fairly strong lighting. Top right: Valliseneria and Sagittaria reproduce spontaneously via runners (top). The new plant must be made to take root (center) before cutting the runner (below). The water level should not be too high, to assist the penetration of light, and the bed should be given appropriate enrichment. Miniature jardinieres can even be constructed, using jars or ice cream or yogurt cartons, for example. The filtration should be gentle, and there should be no oxygenation at all, to avoid the CO2 dissolved in the water being let off into the atmosphere. If there is not enough carbon dioxide, equipment to provide moderate diffusion of this gas into the tank is available in aquarium stores. A few fish will add the finishing touches to the equilibrium, and if you choose specimens from the same species, they can reproduce as well. These days many aquarists are enthusiastic about the reproduction of fish, but few are interested in cultivating plants, although this can be just as fascinating. The propagation of aquatic plants is easy and you can quickly build up large stocks to pass on to, or exchange with other enthusiasts.
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In the wild, the most common mode of reproduction among plants is sexual, involving flowers and seeds. When the conditions in a setting are inauspicious, however, sexual reproduction gives way to asexual reproduction, know as vegetative multiplication. Pieces of plants that have broken off or been uprooted, and then swept along by the movement of the water, settle and take root. It is this vegetative multiplication method that is used in aquariums. The techniques used, which vary according to the type of plants, are similar to those of horticulture. TAKING CUTTINGS Cuttings can be taken from a stemmed plant, which is cut cleanly with a razor blade or scissors. The upper part, about one third of the length, is replanted. Some aquarists prefer to remove the leaves from the lower third of the cutting before planting it, while others recommend leaving them in place, on the grounds that they will gradually be converted into mineral matter as they are degraded. Roots form and the new plant normally grows quickly. The lower part of the mother plant produces lateral shoots that can be used for cuttings later on. Adventitious roots (those growing sporadically away from their normal location) make it easier to take cuttings from most stemmed plants (like Cabomba, Hygrophila). Cuttings can be easily taken from most stemmed plants, provided a few precautions are taken. T How to encourage cuttings? The upper part of a stemmed plant produces substances that inhibit the growth of side shoots. If this section is cut off or firmly squeezed, these substances do not reach the lower part of the plant, and lateral shoots suitable for cuttings can grow. This technique is widely used when the stem of a plant reaches the surface of the water. To take cuttings from a plant, cut the upper part (top) and replant it (center). This provides the opportunity for lateral shoots to emerge on the original stem (below). To take a cutting from a stemmed plant, it is advisable to make a clean cut. A FEW HINTS FOR SUCCESSFUL CUTTINGS If the lower part of a stemmed plant loses its leaves, this means that light is having difficulty in penetrating right to the bottom of the aquarium. In this case, cut the plant a few centimeters from the bed and transplant the healthy upper part. If you have small rearing tanks, these can be used as aquatic “greenhouses” for the cultivation of stemmed plants. It is best to use fertilizer, in the form of liquids or clay balls. Some fish need to be added to ensure the supply of C02 to the plants. Aeration is not strictly necessary, and filtration should be moderate.
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